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The 3 medressas of Registan Square

Beautifully lit wooden gate

It is clear that Islam has no tradition of portraying animals: this is definitely not a lion but a tiger. Nevertheless: very beautiful.

Samarkand is the top of the bill in terms of ceramic tiles. The Registan square is considered one if the most beautiful squares in the world.

The three buildings are all medressas. The Ulughbek on the left is the oldest. On the right lies the Sher Dor (Lion) medressa, and in the back the Tilla-Kari (Gold covered) medressa. The decoration of the facade of the Sher Dor is shown below and can also be found on the 200 sum banknote.

This is a tiger, not a lion

Yes, it IS all gold you see

The Tilla-Kari has a better name: it is said there is 1,000 m2 of gold on these walls, and it surely looks that way.

Writing in Arabic


The Shahr-i-Zindah is an avenue of mausoleums, and is situated next to the graveyard. We were as much surprised by the portraits on the modern gravestones as by the rich decorations of the Shahr-i-Zindah.


The door The most important mausoleum of Shahr-i-Zindah is that of Qusam Ibn Abbas, the cousin of the prophet Mohammed. Qusam came to Samarkand to conquer the city. However, he lost the battle and was beheaded ... but didn't die. He just picked up his head and descended into a deep well ... where he's believed to be still alive today.

Street of mausoleums

A text for ugly people

We were told this text above one of the doors in Shahr-i-Zindah means: "God does not look at ones appearances, but at his deeds". We bought a wooden carved 'tile' with this text, but at home it became clear it was plaster with paint. We are confident God will take care of the seller.




Man at the bazaar

Samarkand is also a place to live for a lot of people. We liked the bazaar next to the Registan square, where you can buy sugar, kebab or other necessities. One of those necessities we buy is a little plastic tub., which we might need in the bus. Yesterday one of our travel companions got sick and did something that was very unpleasant to the bus driver.

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